Beaubourg | Done.

Yep, it's done! finished. seamed. blocked. gifted. and (very poorly! so sorry, Katie!) photographed.

You can see the details on sizing, needles and yarn requirements on my Ravelry project page (here).

I followed the pattern exactly, except for the collar which I picked up and knitted directly onto the neck edge (instead of knitting it separately and then seaming). And it came together beautifully. I especially love the yarn over short rows to shape the shoulders and front neckline. I did think to take photos as I worked them and created a short pictorial to walk you through the technique.

A few other finishing notes:

• I buried all my ends on the knit side (which is the wrong side of the finished piece) before I started seaming. Note that I joined all the new balls a few stitches in from the sides so my side seams would be smooth. Heichi separates into three strands; I buried each of those strands separately with a sharp needle. 
• I used Silk & Ivory (from the needlepoint side of the shop) to sew the seams. That thread is sturdy and smooth and made seaming the Heichi almost easy.
• I worked all the seams in mattress stitch, treating the knit side like the right side. That put my seams on the outside once I turned the garment purl side out. (and yes, that means I had to do a very careful job with them because it's like wearing a garment inside out!)
• I first seamed both shoulders and then I knit the collar.
• For the collar, I picked up a multiple of 4 stitches (so I could work the K2/P2 ribbing in the round) beginning at one shoulder. I knit the collar with the knit side facing - just like a regular collar on a stockinette sweater. I bound off in pattern, loosely. I didn't work any special bind off, just loose - but even - tension on the stitches. The collar used a full skein of yarn to be exactly the 6" the pattern suggested.
• And then I seamed the sides, wove in the last few ends (this sounds quick but it took four hours!) and gave it good 30 minute soak (in the bathroom sink).
• I smoothed it into place and let it dry. Note that I took this photo early in the drying process. I subsequently unfolded the collar so it wouldn't dry with any kind of crease. (note that Katie isn't wearing the collar folded in the photo above).

And now - the pictorial on working the short rows. We've added a new section to the sidebar to store tutorials like this…hopefully over time we'll have a real catalog. If there are ones you'd like to see added soon, please let us know.

I think that's all I have to say about Beaubourg - except - I wish it were mine! The finished piece feels great and you know silk is one of my favorite fibers. Please let me know if you have any questions. I hope you'll consider knitting this one for yourself!

Sundry | Tips to Begin.

Three of us cast on our Sundry shawls at the shop last Friday and I know there are a few more out there! Please do share your progress in our Ravelry group; we'd love to cheer y'all on!

I've used about one-third of my main color yarn, so that means I'm half-way through the main color solid garter section. There are 69 stitches on the needles, but the rows are getting noticeably longer; I'm not sure how many stitches I'll be able to increase before I start the houndstooth section.

The only tip I have to share so far is to mark the right edge of the right side (RS) rows. I'm using a locking stitch marker and I move it up every few inches so I can see it easily. When I start a row at that edge, I know I'm knitting a right side row (with an increase at the beginning). Conversely, when I start a row at the other edge, I know I'll be decreasing at the beginning and increasing at the end.

I am nearly certain I've messed up those increases and decreases somewhere along the 100+ rows I've worked. But I'm completely positive it doesn't matter! I am just weighing my yarn and counting my stitches every few inches so I'll know when to start the houndstooth section.

Isn't that bias edge pretty? (it's the left edge of the RS rows.)

If you have any questions about your Sundry please post them here or on Ravelry. And please - share photos!!

…and now I'm off to start swatching the latest from Shibui.

yep, I do love my job!

100 Diamonds | Getting Started.

my project, Chart A and the first repeat of Chart B completed

We had a great turnout for yesterday's cast-on, but sorry, no group shot - it was almost too busy to think about photos! In case you're knitting along virtually (or maybe you haven't quite decided if you want to join in), I wanted to share a few hints for getting started.

First, do you need to swatch. Not necessarily - this is a shawl, so "fit" isn't that important, but a swatch can tell you if you like the fabric...and if you'll have enough yarn to complete the project. If your fabric is looser than the gauge listed in the pattern you'll use more yarn than the pattern requires. I'm using Findlay Dappled which gives me about 25% more yards than the pattern suggests; no worries there! I swatched to see if I could use a bigger needle. The pattern suggests a laceweight yarn on size 3 needles and based on my swatches, I think that's great advice. If you're a loose knitter, consider a size 2 (and conversely size 4 for tight knitters). And if you are close to the suggested 630 yards, you should definitely swatch and check your gauge. If you're loose, you'll need more yarn.

Now you're ready to cast-on. Read through the pattern first. Note that the first two rows aren't charted; you work those rows from the pattern instructions and then start Chart A. The pattern also says that the first and last stitches on each row aren't charted. Don't forget to work them! If you're counting stitches, your count should always be two more than the number of boxes on the chart (because those two stitches aren't on the charts).

Use a regular long-tail cast on, starting with a slip knot.

The stitch abbreviations are included in a separate document, linked from the pattern. The group had questions about the SKP (slip the first stitch, knit the 2nd stitch and then pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch). This is a left-slanting decrease similar to an SSK (and feel free to substitute that stitch - it's your piece!). I'm working the SKP because I find it easier to work after a yarn over. And I'm passing the stitch knit-wise so it lays flat once it's passed over.

If you have other questions, please ask in the comments or on the thread in our Ravelry forum.

and please, share your projects and photos!

Pendulum | Tips and Suggested Modifications.

Word around the shop is that we have quite a few knitters joining us for the Pendulum KAL. And if you're on the fence about joining us or maybe just haven't decided which yarn to use, we just shelved a big order of Zen Yarn Garden Serenity 20 (including a few of the "one of a kind" color ways). This yarn is a merino/cashmere/nylon blend with 400 yards per skein.  Two skeins would make a lovely Pendulum!  ...but I already bought my yarn. Yep, I went with the Panama in blue and cream!

the blue is my main color and the cream is my contrast

As promised, I've reviewed the completed projects on Ravelry to gather up tips and suggested modifications.

The good news is that many have knit the project as written, with stunning results. So if you simply want to follow Amy's instructions, you are good to go! Please note that I found a lot of variation in yardage and needle sizes (many knitters used 400 yards plus of the main color...on size 5, 6 and 7 needles). If you are close to the specified 340/230 yards, you should definitely swatch. You'll be adding two stitches on every row... so the shawl grows quickly and the last few repeats will be on several hundred stitches (which means those rows use a lot of yarn!)

However, many knitters have made modifications. Most of these are to the cast-on and edge treatment to help block the edge straight, so you can wear the piece more like a scarf than a shawl (similar to Color Affection). Before I dive into more detail on those modifications, I thought it might help to see what the cast-on and first bit of edge looks like...as written.  Honestly, I'd be fine with it!

as written, after working seven increase rows

But I've knit both my Color Affections by starting the increases on the very first row and with an added YO at the beginning of each row (which I dropped on the subsequent row to create loose edge stitches, but no additional holes); I was planning similar modifications for Pendulum, but then I read what Knitloon did with hers. She added YO's at both ends (K1, YO, M1L, .... , M1R, YO, K1) and then used those YOs on the next row as the basis for her M1s. Pretty great idea. Here's what it looks like after a few rows. The edge is flat and stretchy; I'm going to use this method.

working increase rows right away (I did not knit the plain row after the cast-on) and YOs at both ends

...and in case you'd like to use it too, here's what it looks like in more detail (you should be able to click the photos to see them bigger).

I've worked K1, YO and the next stitch is the YO from the row before.

then....

Note that we could be elegant and do the first YO on each row backwards...which would eliminate having to re-position the bar before we work the M1R...but that just seems like a lot to remember and this project is supposed to be social knitting. 

Many knitters also substituted a garter tab cast-on. Frankly, I don't see the point since there is no garter edge on the shawl (and Color Affection doesn't use one either and it turns out beautifully). But if you want to try it, here's a great tutorial from Stephen West.

The important thing to remember is that this is YOUR project and YOU get to decide what - if any - modifications you make.

Our group cast-on is tomorrow afternoon at the shop (2pm-ish on Friday, April 5); hope you're planning to join us in person or virtually in our Ravelry thread!

Color Affection Starts Tomorrow!

That's right - our Color Affection KAL starts tomorrow - Friday, July 6th, 2pm-ish. And judging from the diminished piles of Madelinetosh Sock, Madelinetosh Light and Malabrigo Sock stacked on the shelves, we think this is going to be a popular one!  (you might want to arrive early for one of those coveted seats around the yellow table :-)

One of the (very many!! in my humble opinion!) advantages to a knit-along is sharing tips and techniques. Based on my review of projects on Ravelry (oh my, more than 4,200?!!!), talking to folks who have knit this, and my own experience with garter stitch and short rows, I have just a few thoughts to share. Of course once we actually get into the knitting, I'm sure we'll have more.

First, many have asked about needle size and swatching. The pattern suggests a size 6 for the fingering weight size. I usually like a size 6 or size 7 needle for fingering weight shawls, so a 6 seems fine. And no, I'm not going to swatch - but if I were worried about having enough yarn, or if I thought I was a loose or tight knitter...I would.

Second, the most prevalent modification I saw on all those project pages was about the edge. And making it looser by adding a YO between the first two (knit) stitches on every row, and then dropping it on the next row (or some variation thereof, but the one I just described is by far the easiest!). If you want your finished shawl to have a crescent shape at the edge, I would knit the pattern as written. But, if - like me - you'd like to block that edge into a straight line, I suggest the modification. Yes, I'm going to do this.

Third, twisting the two (and then three) colorways along the edge so it's pretty. This photo tutorial shows the method I plan to use. It adds one more twist to the color change than I usually do (which is what Jared Flood described in his ever-so-popular Noro Striped Scarf).

and Fourth (and finally), a reminder that short rows in garter stitch are easy. You just wrap & turn (think "move the stitch, move the yarn, move the stitch") and you're done! I also suggest hanging a locking stitch marker around that wrapped stitch (or placing it on the needle just before or after that stitch) so you can easily find it knitting back...and know where to start counting for your next wrap & turn.

...off to wind my yarn and cast on. Writing this post has made me lose whatever self-control I had about waiting til tomorrow to start!!

Hope to see you tomorrow!